Headed East: A Smokey Mountain Farewell

7/2

For the first time since I had been in the Smokey's, I looked from my hotel balcony to see the splendid vision of blue skies. You don’t know how excited I was! I packed up early with the plan to head right back up the mountain side to Clingmans Dome, this time from a hopefully very different point of sunshine filled view.

For days I had hiked the trails of this park. For days I had been told about bear sightings, never getting the privilege of seeing one. Well, I felt the black furry presence of a splendid day coming my way as I drove out of my hotel parking lot. As I did my standard look right, look left, before pulling out, there he was. A bear cub was munching away at something by the dumpster. Yes, not the way I had hoped to be awed my first bear sighting in the Smokey's. But, I couldn't help but to smile as I headed back into the main entrance to the park.

Before heading out of Gatlinburg for the last time, I had to stop and do what all tourists do and take a picture with the Smokey Mountain National Park sign. I had saved it for the last day, wanting to somehow deserve the selfie.

As I drove the 20 miles all the way back up to Cingsmans Dome, it was just as breathtaking as I had hoped it would be. Thinking back to that first day, there was nothing but a shroud of clouds floating across the valley as I had driven up the valley. I had seen nothing but the shadow of trees and white those 5 days before. I had only imagined what it would look like on the way up and at the top at Clingmans Dome herself.

Well, God decided to answer my prayers and truly blessed my last day in the Smokey's with a spectacular blue skied day atop the mountain side. It was absolutely beautiful.

I had read already that the half a mile hike to Clingmans Dome was a steep one, so after Chimney Tops days before, I was not taking any chances. I grabbed my water and trekking poles and walked my way up the highest point in the whole of the Smokey Mountains National Park. Wow. The shades of green were mesmerizing. No need for photo editing today, I will tell you. The Spruce and Fir dotted the mountain sided panoramic view. It was breathtaking.

As I climbed, I seem to pass everyone along the way. Just a half a mile, the trail had people sitting on benches or hunched over in exhaustion. I will tell you, it felt good after 4 straight days of hiking. I could actually feel that I was stronger. I had read this about the Appalachian, and the Camino in Europe. That you just get stronger and stronger each day you hike. That you don't even realize it happens. Well, I felt it and it felt good.

I saw an Appalachian trail sign as I walked up, and felt this deep stir in my soul once more. I would read later that hikers on the AT, just like the daily tourists who make their way up the mountain in the comfort of their own cars, like to come up and see the view from Clingmans Dome as well. One day, I will stand atop the dome once more. But next time with backpack on and 200 miles into the Appalachian Trail.

But for today, I was so thankful for the cloud dotted blue skies. You could see all of the mountain peaks from atop the dome. The tourist lookout, once made of wood, was now a concrete, artistic minded creation, and quite photogenic along the line of lush dark hues of green and the welcomed blues above.

I lingered, but I knew I had big plans for the rest of my day. So soon, I was back in my car and on my way back down the mountain side. I couldn’t help myself but to stop the car on several occasions to take in the vista views before me. Along the way, several couples and families dotted the over looks savoring not only their lunches but the delicious views the valley provided.

Once back at the bottom, instead of heading back into Gatlinburg, I took the left turn to Cade’s Cove. I had read all about the 11 mile scenic drive in the park, and that you could drive it, hike it, or bike it. Oh yes! How perfect to end my adventure; biking Cade’s Cove in the Smokey Mountains! I just hoped and prayed that they were renting bikes again when I got there. And if they were, that they would have one left on such a beautiful day as this.

The long drive to Cades Cove was amazing! The whole drive up, the river raged by, as the mountains loomed beautifully over you.When I arrived at the Cades Cove campground, it was easy to find the bike rentals and park store. To my luck, there were plenty of bikes and they were super cheap! It was an awesome feeling to know that I was about to bike this loop that most people just drive. I was feeling pretty pumped.

After a stop off in the store for ice and and an awesome “I Biked Cades Cove” patch, I was on my way. It was me and the cars. There was no other bike in sight. Was I crazy? Would I regret this in a minute? Well! No turning back now!

From the get go, it was gorgeous. I was told that there would be car pile ups, that when you are biking, are quote convenient for passing everyone to see what the fuss was all about ahead. The first big back up was a gorgeous heard of horses conveniently hanging out along the fence line of the road. How beautiful a scene it was, with the lush green of the valley, and the mountains and blue skies painting a perfect picture for us all to see. With already an authentic and permanent smile on my face, I continued on. I noticed that people would pass me, then later, I would pass them again. I started seeing the same people over and over as the road progressed. Waves and cordial smiles turned into conversations, turned into offerings of water, as they started to look out for the lone biker along Cades Cove.

As I slowly progressed the 11 miles, historic cabins and churches dotted the road side. You could stop and explore them all, allowing you to take in not just the beauty of this place, but its history as well.

To my delight, I soon pedaled past another back up. This time because of the adorableness of a little bear cub frolicking about in a field and super close to the road. He had us all silenced and mesmerized as he rolled around playfully in the protection of the tall wild grass. The show continued as he popped his head up and munched away at the wild flowers. It was a wonderful moment to finally get my much sought after bear sighting after 5 days.

But, this time with no dumpster to lure him in. He was such a tiny thing, I wondered where momma bear was.

She was spotted way out in the field as we all just smiled at this cute bundle of joy, knowing momma was just far enough away to give the little cub some first moments of independence.

As I continued down the road, I somehow had the strength to make it up the several inclines of the first half of the road. I was proud that the whole first half of the trail, 5 miles, I didn’t get off my bike. I pushed myself up those climbs as cars sometime patiently waited for me to get the top. I thanked them for their patience, as I was determined. But, after the halfway mark, as the trail turned back and hunger started sinking in, I humbled myself to the what seemed like never ending climbs. I will admit, I got off my bike a few times to walk myself up the roads, and took a much needed cliff bar break at one of the panoramic viewed wildflower fields.

Before I knew it, it was over, and I was turning back onto the park road to the store. My last adventure of the Smokey Mountains was complete. How awesome I felt as I headed out of the park. Not seeing one biker on the road the entire time made me feel like a beast. What a way to say goodbye to the this most awesome moment in my life.

As I took the road to Maryville, Tennessee, and headed north, all of a sudden the Smokey's were behind me. I looked in my rear view mirror, and saw them in the distance already. Was I ready for this? Seeing the mountains behind me brought on this conundrum of thought. Another day? Should I? I mean, it was really hard to think about saying goodbye to this magical place that I had called home and my playground for a week now.

As I continued to drive, allowing my soul to let them go, the mountains slowly disappeared and were replaced with the foothills of Tennessee. It wasn't too much further and I had arrived at Friendsville to a lovely Airbnb couple ,who let me clean my smelly Smokey Mountain backpack of clothes. It was bittersweet as they wanted to hear all about my adventures thus far.

After 5 days of hiking and biking the Smokey's, I was officially moving on from the most anticipated part of my road trip. But, the exciting part? Now I would head back west. Homeward bound, where all would I go? What hikes and bike rides lay ahead?

Texas was several states away, and this teacher still had lots of time to make the journey home an adventure of its own.

"Keep close to Nature's heart and break clear away once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean." ~John Muir