Headed East: Chimney Tops & Caves

6/30

As my heart pounded loudly all the way up into my head, I reminded myself to NEVER not think that trekking poles are NOT necessity while I am at the Smokey Mountains. Chimney Tops Overlook, only 1.75 miles from the trail head, I of course had not taken seriously. But the BEAST of a climb came on quickly. I mean, seriously! The workout of the week! I was having another of those moments like the "no snack" epiphany I had at Ramsey Cascades two days before.

Stair after stair, it seemed to be the never ending story of trail. Was it beautiful? Yes! It was gorgeous! But, was it hard to concentrate on anything else but the 600 steps and 900 feet of elevation that lay before you? Oh, goodness gracious.

Once finally at the overlook, people were everywhere, most perched along the ground in obvious recuperation. I chuckled, immediately thinking back to hell-acious climbs of my past I could compare to this moment. The 4:30 A.M. climb up the Incan steps on the way to Machu Picchu in 2009 came to mind. The 35 minute climb up the Great Wall of China in 2007, I still consider one of the best workouts of my life. You just kept going, knowing a worthy prize awaited you at the top. So, feeling accomplished and giggling at three guys from Minnesota, I snapped their photo as they opened their celebratory beers. It was a tradition for them on all of their hikes I was told. Can't mess with tradition.

I gazed out to the reason everyone hiked up this afternoon's sweat session, and got a obvious realization as to why the park authorities do not want tourists climbing to the top of Chimney Tops anymore. A fire, now years ago, took out the treeline of the area. Now, with no protection and structure from the vegetation that was burned out, the rock has become less safe, less stable. But, still, I saw people hanging out along the ridge line of Chimney Tops. It made my competitive side curious, so I walked down the trail a bit more to investigate.

The official stop sign was a locked gate pretty much making it clear. But, the little make shift rocked and tree branch pathway, brought me to deliberation.

"Should I?”. But, as I listened to a Boy Scout troop talk about the fire, the instability of the rocks, and on the importance of safety, the responsible teacher in me won out. I also envisioned that if anyone would get handcuffed and sent away for the illegal gesture, it would be me. Was it actually illegal? I am guessing not. But, I envisioned it to be so, with me on front of a newspaper and slapped across the nightly news. “Texas teacher arrested and then soon fired for her poor judgement, all for a selfie atop Chimney Tops.” The microphones in my face asking, "was it worth it ma'am?"

Yeah, so I instead mingled with the Boy Scout leaders, took pictures for people, and watched the chipmunks sputter about in hopes of some trail mix. Chipmunks are adorable. People always oblige.

I will note, Chimney Tops Trail has always been a must hike in the Smokey's based on its scenic overview and challenging rock climb at the end of the trail. But, what stood out to me was how beautiful the trail was along the way.

The cascade of the river ran beautifully through the bottom portions of the trail. Bridges and blended earthen steps guided you along the whole of the path. It was a lush and picturesque trail, that I got just as much enjoyment climbing along the boulders at the bottom river bed, as I did seeing the final destination of Chimney Tops herself.

Back at the parking lot, I definitely needed a good stretch out after this one, and I thought, maybe its not the overlook at all that has made her famous. Maybe it's instead just the sense of accomplishment that people feel once they reach the top that makes Chimney Tops seem that much more delectable to envision.

Right down the road was the Alum Cave trail head, my second adventure for the day. A longer trail, I smartly stuffed the fanny with snacks, filled up my water, and grabbed my trekking poles. In 2.3 miles, I would reach the popular landmark of Alum Cave. But, immediately I was mesmerized by the trail I was walking on.

After walking over a bridge as the river beautifully flowed beneath the canopy of forest, you were off in a dream land of lush green, waterfalls and wild flowers. The river beautifully flowed with you all the way up the trail. I couldn't help but to just keep stopping to let it all melt into my mind, one beautiful view at at time.

As you neared the top, and the trail opened up, instantly the river was replaced with wildflowers dotting the trail line. The vistas and overlooks were gorgeous! Then, almost immediately thereafter, I looked up and saw the famous half cave towering over me. The climb up was only a few stairs, and I was greeted by fellow hikers all sitting, talking, eating, and taking in the view. It was a site to see, but I longed for the glow of the sun.

I climbed to the top, and sat down to much needed sustenance. I studied the cave opening, the fellow hikers, the colors of stone, the hues of green beckoning from the trees, and I wished for sun and blue skies. I thought about the reality of not having sunshine since I had arrived at the Smokey's days before, and how it had effected my photos. The sun has a natural transforming power with scenic photography that no filter can copy or create. I can just hope that I will be blessed with the presence of her majesty at least one of the last two days I am lost within this beautiful place.

As I ventured back down, I paused at the overlook of wildflowers once more, probably even more beautiful than the cave itself. As I slowly maneuvered myself away from the memorizing overlook before me, once more I was surrounded by the forest. The river sang once again into my enchanted ears. All the way back to the trail head, I thought about the beauty of this trail, and how it doesn’t get talked about. Just the trail itself, without the cave, is one I will not forget.

For the first time since being in the Smokey's, the sun fought its way through the clouds as I got back to the hotel that evening. I decided to finally take the opportunity to pack my journal and colored pencils and head down the main drag of Gatlinburg to see first hand why this place is always so packed with people. Restaurants, shops, fun activities for the family. I get it, but I wasn’t personally in my happy place until I saw a back patio, river flowing by, that called my name.

I put my dirty sandaled feet up, enjoyed my Ashville Pilsner and finally finished a drawing I had started from Rock Island State Park from what seemed like already weeks ago. Time had seemed to magically stand still for me, as my love affair with the Smokey Mountains continued.