Headed East: Smokey Mountain Smitten

6/29

My goal for the day was a guy named Charlie and his bunion. But, as I drove up the mountain side and my phone told me I had arrived, Charlie was nowhere to be found. Instead, Clingmans Dome signs started luring me to keep heading up her mountain side. She was a definite stop on my itinerary, as the highest point in the Smokey Mountain National Park, so I kept driving. I slowly climbed the seven miles up, overlook views a plenty.

I climbed so high, I entered into the eerie but yet beautiful cloud line. It seemed like one of those tense moments in a movie, where you know something or someone is about to jump out in front of you along the highway. The road wound itself up and around the mountain side, and you saw nothing but the silvery haunted mist before you. It finally opened into a parking lot at the top of Clingmans Dome. Fellow tourists were everywhere, but all you could see across the valley was the white of clouds, floating among the black shadow of Spruce and Fir. I imagined what this place would look like, the beauty it would possess, if the sun could just find a way to pass through the thick layer of alabaster that enveloped the whole of the mountain valley.

The temperature seemed to have fallen 30 degrees, as I waited in line at the visitor center to make sure on where anonymous Charlie was. While I waited, two Appalachian hikers were buying shirts and water. I made a point of studying everything about them from their choice of pack to their shoes.

Turns out, Charlie was miles back down the road, conveniently hiding at Newfound Gap parking lot. Hoping and praying for sunshine filled views later at Clingmans Dome, I quickly headed back to the car and headed back down the mountain side.

Seven miles later, I took the right turn into Newfound Gap parking lot and I found her majesty quickly. There she was. The Appalachian Trail marker, which was where I was to start my four mile journey up the mountain side to see what this Charlie's Bunion was all about. See, history tells us that Horace Kephart, one of the fathers of the Smokey Mountain National Park, had taken his friend Charlie on a hike. At the top, with a most beautiful ridge line and panoramic view of the valley, they rested and Charlie decided to take off his boots. I can only imagine the chuckle the two men must have had as Kephart noted he would name the majestic view point in his friend's bunion's honor. The rest was history.

But, back to my hike. The Appalachian Trail runs through the Smokey Mountains. You have to understand how just me being on the trail was a monumental moment. It was surreal. It was emotional. You see, I have a plan. That plan is to be an actual "sobo", or southern bound hiker, on the AT in five years. Yes, I excitedly have the longest hiking only foot path in the world, at 2193 miles from Georgia to Maine, on my "to do" list. So, you can maybe grasp, just a tiny bit, how giddy I was just to be on her for a day.

As I started up the trail, I immediately fell in love. The trail, as she steadily climbed, was absolutely beautiful. I followed the famous white blazes up the rocky and rooted trail.

Wild fern, my favorite along any trail, glowed the brightest of green as the mist of clouds danced their way through the trees, only offering you glimpses of the valley.

I wondered how far I had climbed in elevation as the gray mist began to envelope the trail, just like I had seen atop Clingmans Dome. It was so quiet. Ghostly. But, I felt no fear. There was instead a peace that only nature and God can provide that moved me up the mountain side in elated delight.

After about 2 miles in, I came to a spur in the trail where a couple was studying their alltrails.com app on their phone. There were signs that led in two directions, but nothing about Charlie's Bunion was noted on either.

Not sure which way to go, I let alltrails.com come to the rescue as the nice couple and I studied the trail movement on the screen. Soon after, they were headed back down to the trail head at Newfound Gap, as I stayed straight leading towards Ice Water Spring Shelter.

Speaking of shelters, a little further in, I saw a sign. It was right off the trail, so I couldn't help but to be curious and want to go take a look for myself. I have watched several documentaries at this point, and I am currently finishing my first book on the AT. So, I already know that hiking to shelters for snack breaks and shut eye, will become a normal part of my day once on the trail.

As I approached the tin roofed stone building, two tents were set up in front of it. I was greeted by a father and son duo just inside the open faced shelter. They were section hiking for 4 days, and informed me with what seemed like maybe some hometown pride, that the shelters and views of the Georgia trail line put this one to shame. The son even mentioned the word luxurious. Wow. I do recall reading about the trail views and awesomeness of the shelters in Georgia. I will just have to wait and see if I agree.

After I wished them luck on the rest of their journey, I got back to my own. As I started a big descent down the mountain side streams of water rushed down the trail. It felt cool against my sandaled feet and I didn't seem to mind at all, as I started passing smiling hikers on their way out. I realized I was getting close. Then I saw Charlie's sign, which very simply said to “keep children close”. I soon learn why.

I veered left, and wildflowers seem to be waiting and immediately welcomed me on both sides of the trail. At first I didn't realize the all out grandness of what I just trekked 4 miles to see, as a cliff side loomed to the right and jagged rock jetted out from the mountain on the left.

It wasn't until I climbed up the jagged rocks that I was enveloped with the panoramic valley views before me. Wow! I mean seriously. Wow! The clouds created a gray mood across the valley, but as the sun cleared the clouds, it brought the whole view into another realm. It was majestic. It was powerful. But, it still wasn't enough.

This is the moment when, if you are feeling adventurous, you will then slowly, carefully, set your trekking poles aside and instead use your hands and feet to take you across the jagged rocks. How far you would venture down the crag was in itself, its own adventure. There was definitely something in me that day as I frolicked among the rocks. I felt a since of youthfulness and accomplishment as I sat and patiently waited for the sun to push her way through the clouds and allow the whole valley to come to life again. With Mount Kephart to the west and Mount Le Conte dominating the north west views, when the sun did decide to dazzle you with her presence, you were amazed.

Charlie's Bunion was simply exhilarating. I would add, that it definitely would help you get over any fear of heights you might think you possess, as you shimmied your way along the ridge line and her breathtaking views. As the sun opened up again and brought to life the colors of the valley, I took in how much this particular trek meant to me. It was a epic moment that I truly saw, felt, and experienced with my whole body.

I could have easily lingered there the rest of the day and played among the rocks, taking photos for the people I met from Tennessee, Texas and all the way up to Minnesota. I loved meeting and mingling with a whole family, who do a yearly hiking trip together.

We talked, we took photos for each other, we shared and breathed in the moment.

But I knew I had a 4 mile trek back down the mountain that wouldn’t happen on its own. So, starting my descent, getting another awesome 4 mile moment with the AT, it was impossible to complain. All the way back down to my car, I had a constant reminder of where I was so blessed to be at this very moment. It was like the sun felt my energy and fought her way through the clouds just for me, creating a shimmer of light to the moss clinging to the rock and trees. There again was the wild fern lining the trails, illuminating their brightest of green. To me, this trail was magical and for the moment, it was mine.

I maneuvered my way over the wet rock of the trail once more. The green of the moss covered rocks. The smell and story like presence of the fir and spruce trees. The whole scene enveloped me from within.

I mean, I was right smack dab in the middle of the spectacular of The Smokey Mountain National Park. The adventure in my head from weeks before, had become reality.

I came out into the view of the parking lot, people everywhere, and felt this since of pride. I don’t know what it was about the AT, but she just had this power.

Just knowing I was on her, just made me feel alive. As I took it all in and headed

back down the mountain to Gatlinburg, the skies opened up and a down pour hit the park once more.

I thought about how I had been drenched from head to toe the day before on the finale of the Ramsey Cascades Trail. The only thing that had gotten wet today were my sandaled feet that had traversed me up and down my playground for the day. Even if it had rained, I don't think it would of messed with my mood in the slightest.

As the canopy of trees opened up to Gatlinburg, 17 miles later, my day was done. But, I couldn't help but to feel awesomely alive. I had just hiked 8 miles along the Appalachian Trail!